Strolling Through Time: Uncovering 700 Years of Lanna History in Chiang Mai’s Old City

The moment I stepped through Tha Phae Gate, something shifted. It wasn’t just the sudden drop in temperature as I left the bustling modern streets and entered the shade of ancient walls. It was like crossing an invisible threshold where time operates differently—where centuries-old temples share narrow sois with hipster coffee shops, and where the ghosts of Lanna kings might still wander among selfie-taking tourists.

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I’ve visited Chiang Mai’s Old City four times now, and each visit peels back another layer. The first time, I was that typical tourist checking temples off a list. The second time, I slowed down. By my fourth visit last November, I found myself sitting on a crumbling section of wall near Chang Puak Gate, watching locals feed pigeons while monks in saffron robes chatted on smartphones, and thinking: “This place makes absolutely no sense—and that’s why I love it.”

The Old City is where Chiang Mai’s heart beats strongest, where 700 years of history isn’t preserved behind glass but lives and breathes in daily life. It’s a place where I’ve gotten hopelessly lost (more than once), eaten the best khao soi of my life from a cart with no name, and accidentally walked into a monk’s private quarters while trying to find a bathroom (still mortified about that one).

I’m not a historian—I’m just a photographer with a thing for crumbling walls and golden light—but this ancient square has captured my imagination like few places have. So grab a cold brew or a Thai tea, and let me walk you through my favorite corners of this living museum, where I’ll try to stick to useful information but will probably ramble about the quality of light at sunset, too.

The Lanna Legacy: Understanding What Makes These Old Bricks Special

Before I dive into where to go and what to shoot, let me give some context that took me three visits to fully appreciate. The Old City isn’t just old—it’s the original Chiang Mai, founded in 1296 by King Mengrai as the capital of the Lanna Kingdom (“Land of a Million Rice Fields”).

The city was designed as a perfect square, surrounded by walls and a moat that were meant to keep out Burmese invaders. Did they work? Well, not entirely—Chiang Mai fell to Burma in the 16th century and stayed under Burmese control for about 200 years. So I guess those walls weren’t quite as effective as hoped. Still impressive engineering for the 13th century, though.

What blows my mind is that the moat is still there—a perfect square of water surrounding the Old City. The original brick walls are mostly gone, though you can still see sections, particularly at the corners and gates. Most were dismantled over the centuries, their bricks repurposed for other buildings (waste not, want not, even in medieval Thailand).

Walking along the moat one evening, I asked a local vendor about the turtles I spotted in the water. He laughed and told me they were released by Buddhists earning merit—a practice called “making merit” where setting animals free brings good karma. So even the wildlife here has spiritual significance. I’m not Buddhist, but there’s something about this layering of meaning that makes even a simple stroll feel profound.

The Lanna Kingdom had its golden age in the 15th century, when art and architecture flourished. This explains why so many of the most stunning temples date from this period. The kingdom eventually became part of Siam (modern Thailand) in the late 1700s, but the Lanna influence remains strong in everything from the local dialect to the distinctive northern Thai cuisine.

I’m getting a bit history-heavy here, but trust me—understanding this background makes wandering through these ancient streets so much more rewarding. It’s the difference between seeing “just another temple” and recognizing the unique elements of Lanna style: the tiered roofs, the naga serpents, the mixture of influences from Burma, Laos, and beyond.

Finding Your Way Around the Walls: A Photographer’s Walking Route

The Old City is roughly 1.5 kilometers on each side—a perfect square that’s ideal for exploring on foot. I’ve tried various approaches, from meticulously planned routes to completely random wandering, and honestly, the latter usually yields the best photographs and discoveries.

That said, if you’re short on time or want some structure, here’s my photographer’s walking route that hits the highlights while catching the best light and avoiding the worst crowds:

Morning: Start at Tha Phae Gate (East)
Begin around 7:30 AM at Tha Phae Gate on the eastern wall. The morning light hits it beautifully, and you’ll beat the Instagram crowds that descend by 9 AM. This restored gate is the most famous entrance to the Old City and makes for great photos with its brick archway and flanking statues.

From Tha Phae, walk west along Ratchadamnoen Road, the main east-west thoroughfare. This tree-lined street is dotted with temples, cafes, and guesthouses. Stay on the northern side for shade—learned that lesson the hard way after getting absolutely scorched one April afternoon.

Mid-Morning: Wat Phra Singh
Continue west to reach Wat Phra Singh by mid-morning. This is one of the city’s most revered temples and houses the Phra Singh Buddha image. The golden chedi gleams magnificently in the late morning light. The temple complex opens at 6 AM, but I find 9-10 AM is perfect—early enough to avoid tour groups but late enough for beautiful lighting on the main buildings.

The wat’s Lai Kham chapel has incredible murals, but they’re kept pretty dark to preserve them. Bring a fast lens if you want decent shots without flash (which is prohibited anyway). I missed this completely on my first visit and only discovered it through a chance conversation with a monk who noticed my camera.

Lunch Break
By now you’ll be hungry and probably templed-out. This is when I usually duck into one of the side sois (alleys) off Ratchadamnoen for lunch. There’s a tiny place called Khao Soi Khun Yai that serves only khao soi (northern Thai curry noodle soup) and closes when they run out, usually around 2 PM. It’s hidden in a garden near Wat Monthian, and I walked past it three times before finding it. Worth the hunt.

Afternoon: Northern Section
After lunch, I head north toward Wat Chiang Man, the oldest temple in the city (built in 1296). The afternoon light creates beautiful shadows across its elephant-buttressed chedi. From there, wander the quieter northern section of the Old City, which has fewer tourists and more glimpses of local life.

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I once got completely turned around in these northern sois and ended up at a small neighborhood temple where an elderly monk was teaching novices. He invited me to sit and listen, and though I understood maybe five words of northern Thai dialect, it became one of my favorite memories. Sometimes getting lost is the point.

Late Afternoon: Wat Chedi Luang
As the day cools, make your way to Wat Chedi Luang in the center of the Old City. This partially ruined temple complex houses a massive chedi that was once the tallest structure in ancient Chiang Mai before it was damaged by an earthquake. The late afternoon light on the elephant statues and ruined chedi is absolutely magical for photography.

There’s a massive gum tree in the temple grounds that’s supposedly 800 years old. Whether that’s true or not, it makes for some interesting compositions with the chedi in the background.

Evening: Western Moat and Sunset
For sunset, I head to the western section of the moat near Suan Dok Gate. The sun setting behind Doi Suthep mountain, with the reflection in the moat water, has provided some of my favorite photos of Chiang Mai. There are fewer tourists here than at the eastern gate, and several little cafes along the outer moat road where you can sip a Chang beer while waiting for the golden hour.

Getting Around: Practical Matters

While walking is my preferred method, the Old City can be exhausting to cover entirely on foot, especially in hot season (March-May) when temperatures regularly hit 35°C/95°F. Some alternatives:

Bicycle Rental: Numerous shops near Tha Phae Gate rent decent bicycles for 50-100 baht per day. The flat terrain makes cycling easy, though watch for one-way streets—I accidentally rode against traffic my first time and got some very animated warnings from locals.

Songthaews: These red shared taxis cruise around the Old City perimeter. Flag one down, tell them where you’re going, and negotiate a price (usually 30-40 baht per person within the Old City). They’re not the most comfortable ride, but they’re cheap and authentic.

Navigation: The grid layout seems simple, but those tiny sois can be confusing. Google Maps works fine, but I prefer Maps.me for its offline functionality and better detail on the smaller alleys. My phone battery died once while deep in the Old City’s maze, and I spent an entertaining hour finding my way out using only temple spires as landmarks.

Temple Tales: The Spiritual Anchors of the Old City

After four visits, I’ve developed a love-hate relationship with temple-hopping. On one hand, they’re stunning, historically significant, and the best places to photograph traditional Lanna architecture. On the other hand, “temple fatigue” is real—there are over 30 within the Old City alone, and they can blur together.

Instead of an exhaustive list, let me share the temples that I found most photographically interesting and why:

Wat Phra Singh: Beyond being spiritually significant, this temple offers the most complete example of classical Lanna architecture. The golden chedi, multi-tiered roofs, and naga serpent staircases create endless compositional possibilities. Visit in early morning when monks sweep the grounds—their orange robes against the gold and red buildings make for stunning photos.

The main bot (ordination hall) houses the revered Phra Singh Buddha image, but honestly, I find the smaller Lai Kham chapel more interesting with its exquisite woodcarvings and murals depicting local life from centuries ago.

During my last visit, I noticed a young monk struggling to take a selfie with the temple. I offered to take his photo, which led to an impromptu English practice session where he explained he was from a hill tribe village and had only been a monk for two months. These unexpected encounters are the real treasure of temple visits.

Wat Chedi Luang: This temple’s massive, partially ruined chedi dominates the center of the Old City. Built in the 15th century and once housing the famous Emerald Buddha (now in Bangkok), it was damaged by an earthquake in 1545. The restoration is somewhat controversial—some sections were rebuilt in the 1990s in a style that purists consider not entirely authentic.

Controversy aside, the ruined aspects create dramatic shadows and textures that change throughout the day. I’ve photographed this temple at least a dozen times and never captured the same image twice. The contrast between the ancient chedi and the immaculately maintained grounds creates a poignant visual tension.

The temple also hosts “Monk Chat” sessions where visitors can speak with monks who want to practice English. I spent an enlightening hour with a 19-year-old monk who asked as many questions about my life as I did about his. When I asked if he missed normal teenage activities, he laughed and showed me games on his smartphone. Even monasticism evolves with the times.

Wat Chiang Man: The oldest temple in the city doesn’t have the grandeur of the others, but its intimacy makes it special. The chedi supported by elephant buttresses is unique in Chiang Mai and dates back to the city’s founding. The temple houses two important Buddha images: the crystal Phra Sae Tang Khamani and the marble Phra Sila.

What I love about this temple is how peaceful it remains despite its historical significance. During one visit, I was the only person there aside from a caretaker who was meticulously sweeping fallen blossoms from the walkway. The small scale makes it easier to appreciate details often missed in larger complexes.

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A photography tip: the stone elephants circling the chedi create fascinating shadows in late afternoon light. Position yourself so the sun backlights them for a dramatic silhouette effect.

Temple Etiquette (Learned the Hard Way)

A quick note on temple behavior, because I’ve made every mistake possible:

• Dress modestly. Shoulders and knees covered for everyone. I once had to buy an overpriced sarong outside Wat Phra Singh because I forgot to change out of shorts.
• Remove shoes before entering buildings (but not necessarily the grounds).
• Women should never touch or hand items directly to monks. I watched a well-meaning tourist try to give a water bottle to a monk, creating an awkward situation for everyone.
• The top of the head is sacred, the feet profane. Don’t pat children on the head, and don’t point your feet at Buddha images or monks.
• Ask before photographing people, especially monks. Most are fine with it, but it’s respectful to ask.

I once accidentally wandered into a monk’s private quarters while looking for a restroom at Wat Lok Molee (just outside the Old City). The young monk was as startled as I was, but he just laughed and pointed me in the right direction. Still, I felt like an idiot for days afterward.

Off the Beaten Path: Finding Quiet Corners in a Tourist Hotspot

For all its historical significance, parts of the Old City can feel like Tourist Central, especially around Tha Phae Gate and the Sunday Walking Street. But step just a block away from these hotspots, and you’ll find yourself in a different world.

My favorite discoveries have always come from random turns down unmarked sois. The northern and western quadrants of the Old City tend to be quieter, with more residential areas and fewer tourist facilities.

One afternoon, escaping a sudden downpour, I ducked into what looked like a small temple compound near Wat Phra Singh. It turned out to be Wat Pa Pao, a Shan-style temple with distinct Burmese influences that’s rarely mentioned in guidebooks. The caretaker, an elderly man who spoke no English, proudly showed me around using elaborate hand gestures to explain the temple’s features. I understood maybe 10% of what he was trying to communicate, but his enthusiasm transcended language barriers.

The narrow lane connecting Phra Singh Road to Ratchamanka Road (I think it’s Soi 3, but the sign was missing) houses several traditional wooden buildings that have been converted into small galleries and craft shops. One belongs to a silversmith who learned his trade from his grandfather and now creates contemporary pieces using traditional Lanna techniques. His workshop is open to visitors, though it’s more about appreciating craftsmanship than shopping—his pieces start at several thousand baht.

For photographers, the less-visited temple grounds offer chances to capture daily life without the awkwardness of pointing cameras at strangers. Wat Inthakin has a small community of cats that the monks care for, creating delightful juxtapositions of sacred and mundane as the cats lounge atop ancient stupas or bat at the hanging temple bells.

Not all my explorations have been successful. A highly-recommended “hidden” coffee shop turned out to be closed for renovation, and what looked like an intriguing local market on Maps.me turned out to be someone’s private driveway. The woman who found me peering into her yard was understandably confused but, in typical Thai fashion, offered me a glass of water before sending me on my way.

These misadventures are part of the experience. The Old City rewards the aimless wanderer more than the checklist-follower. My rule of thumb: if a soi looks interesting, follow it. The worst that happens is you end up back where you started or accidentally trespass on someone’s property (sorry again, random lady).

Practical Matters: Making Your Old City Exploration Smoother

After multiple visits spanning different seasons, I’ve gathered some practical insights that might save you time, money, or discomfort:

When to Visit

The ideal time to explore the Old City is during the cool season (November to February) when temperatures hover around a pleasant 25°C/77°F and rain is rare. My November visit was perfect—cool mornings, warm afternoons, and golden light that made even ordinary street scenes look magical.

Avoid April if possible. It’s the hottest month, with temperatures regularly exceeding 35°C/95°F, and also marks the Songkran water festival when many businesses close and the Old City becomes one giant water fight. Fun if that’s what you’re after, challenging if you’re trying to visit temples or take photos with non-waterproof equipment.

The rainy season (June-October) has its charms—lush vegetation, fewer tourists, dramatic storm clouds—but expect daily downpours, usually in the late afternoon. I got caught in a monsoonal deluge near Wat Chedi Luang and ended up sheltering in a 7-Eleven for an hour while my shoes dried out.

How Long to Spend

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I’ve tried to “do” the Old City in a single day, and it was exhausting and unsatisfying. Two full days is my minimum recommendation—one for the major temples and attractions, another for aimless wandering and discovering the hidden corners.

Ideally, spread your exploration over 3-4 days, mixing Old City exploration with other Chiang Mai attractions like Doi Suthep, the Nimman area, or nearby craft villages. This prevents temple fatigue and gives you flexibility if it rains or you’re just not feeling energetic.

Where to Stay

The Old City offers accommodation for every budget, from 200 baht dorm beds to boutique hotels charging 5,000+ baht per night. I’ve tried both extremes and several options in between.

For photographers, location matters more than luxury. Staying within the Old City walls means you can easily pop out for sunrise or sunset shoots without arranging transportation. The northeast quadrant (near Tha Phae Gate) offers the most options but can be noisy, especially on Sunday evenings due to the Walking Street market.

I’ve found the northwest quadrant offers a better balance of convenience and tranquility. On my last visit, I stayed at a small guesthouse near Suan Dok Gate for about 800 baht per night. Nothing fancy, but clean, quiet, and centrally located. Plus, the owner’s cat made for some entertaining breakfast companions.

Budget Considerations

The Old City can be as expensive or affordable as you make it:

• Temple entrance fees range from free to 100 baht, with most charging around 40 baht.
• Street food meals cost 30-60 baht, while restaurants within the walls typically charge 120-300 baht for main dishes.
• Coffee ranges from 25 baht for Thai-style iced coffee from a cart to 80-120 baht at hipster cafes (which, I must admit, make for great photo opportunities with their artful presentations).
• Transportation is cheap if you stick to songthaews (30-40 baht within the city) or rent a bicycle (50-100 baht per day).

My daily budget averaged around 800-1,000 baht ($25-30) excluding accommodation, which included visiting 2-3 temples, eating mostly street food with one nicer meal, and several coffee stops.

Photography Tips

If, like me, you’re primarily exploring with a camera in hand:

• Bring a wide-angle lens for temple interiors and narrow sois.
• A fast prime lens (35mm or 50mm equivalent) works beautifully for street scenes and low-light situations.
• Morning and late afternoon offer the best light, with fewer harsh shadows than midday.
• Many temples restrict tripod use or charge extra fees for “professional” equipment. My solution: a small, unobtrusive tabletop tripod that fits in a pocket.
• Battery life drains quickly in the heat. I carry two spares and learned to keep them in an inner pocket away from direct sun.

During one temple visit, my camera’s sensor got dust on it from construction nearby. Finding a camera shop that could clean it properly was challenging—I eventually found one in the Nimman area outside the Old City. Consider bringing cleaning supplies if your camera is prone to dust issues.

Final Thoughts: The Old City’s Lasting Impressions

There’s something about Chiang Mai’s Old City that keeps pulling me back. It’s not the most spectacular historical site in Southeast Asia—Angkor Wat is more impressive, Bagan more extensive, Luang Prabang better preserved. Yet the Old City has a livability that these other sites lack, a sense that history isn’t being preserved so much as continuously lived.

On my last evening there, I sat on a low wall near the Three Kings Monument, watching as office workers headed home, tourists studied maps, and saffron-robed monks walked barefoot through it all. A food vendor who’d seen me sitting there several days in a row brought over a small bag of sliced mango without being asked. “For the light,” she said in limited English, pointing to my camera and then to the golden glow hitting the monument. That small gesture of understanding what I was waiting for felt like the perfect encapsulation of what makes this place special.

The Old City isn’t frozen in time—it’s very much alive, changing, adapting. Ancient temples house WiFi routers, century-old shophouses transform into boutique hostels, traditional Lanna ceremonies continue alongside Instagram photoshoots. It’s messy and contradictory and absolutely fascinating.

I don’t know if I’ve captured everything worth seeing—probably not, given how many corners remain unexplored even after four visits. But that’s the beauty of Chiang Mai’s ancient heart. It doesn’t reveal itself all at once but offers up its secrets gradually to those willing to return, to get lost, to sit quietly and watch as 700 years of history continues to unfold in real time.

Will I be back? Definitely. There’s a small coffee shop near Wat Phra Singh where the owner remembers how I like my iced coffee (extra strong, less sweet), and somehow that feels like reason enough to return to this ancient square where the past and present coexist in such captivating harmony.

About the author: Jack is a passionate content creator with years of experience. Follow for more quality content and insights.